Apricot Peach Crochet Crossbody Bag Free Pattern

Introduction

This apricot and peach crossbody bag is a clean, structured little carry-all that looks like it came straight off a streetwear rack. The front panel is built from four bold horizontal color blocks, while the back, flap, and strap keep things grounded in solid tones. Because it is worked entirely in single crochet, the fabric is dense and firm, so the bag holds its boxy shape even when it is empty. It is a wonderful project for anyone who has mastered the basic stitches and wants a wearable, practical piece that comes together from simple rectangles.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: Worsted weight (category 4), 100% acrylic, approx. 220 yd (200 m) per 100 g skein.
  • Color A (apricot): 1 skein (~150 yd / 137 m)
  • Color B (peach): 1 skein (~120 yd / 110 m)
  • Optional: small amount of contrast yarn for the button
• Hook: 4.0 mm (US G-6)
• Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch markers, measuring tape, scissors, one 1 in (2.5 cm) round button
• Finished size: Bag body 9 in (23 cm) wide x 7 in (18 cm) tall x 2 in (5 cm) deep; flap 9 in wide x 3.5 in (9 cm) tall; strap 48 in (122 cm) long x 1 in (2.5 cm) wide

Abbreviations

• ch – chain: make a loop of yarn and pull it through the loop on your hook.
• sc – single crochet: insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops.
• sc2tog – single crochet two together: a decrease that joins two stitches into one.
• sl st – slip stitch: insert hook, yarn over, pull through everything on the hook.
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• RS / WS – right side / wrong side (the outside and inside of the fabric)

Gauge

18 sc x 20 rows = 4 in (10 cm) in single crochet, unblocked. Work a small swatch and measure a 4 in square; if you have more stitches than 18, go up a hook size, and if you have fewer, go down.

Tips Before You Start

• Carry the unused color up the side edge as you change blocks on the front panel — do not cut the yarn between color changes, or you will have dozens of ends to weave in.
• Keep your tension even and slightly firm; the structured look of this bag depends on a dense single crochet fabric that will not stretch out of shape.
• Count your stitches at the end of every row. Each panel should stay at its stated stitch count until the flap decreases begin.
• Before seaming, lay all six pieces out flat and label them (front, back, two sides, base, flap) so the color blocks and gussets line up correctly.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Notes: Work in sc throughout. Ch 1 does not count as a stitch; turn each row. Carry the unused color up the side edge and do not cut between blocks.

Front Panel (Color A and B)

With A, ch 42.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc to end (41 sts).

Rows 2–9: sc in each st across (41 sts).

Change to B.

Rows 10–17: sc in each st across (41 sts).

Change to A.

Rows 18–25: sc in each st across (41 sts).

Change to B.

Rows 26–33: sc in each st across (41 sts). Fasten off.

(Four 8-row blocks, 41 sts x 33 rows = approx. 9 in x 7 in.)

Back Panel (Color B)

With B, ch 42.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc to end (41 sts).

Rows 2–33: sc in each st across (41 sts). Fasten off.

Side Gussets (make 2, Color A)

With A, ch 12.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc to end (11 sts).

Rows 2–33: sc in each st across (11 sts). Fasten off.

(11 sts x 33 rows = approx. 2 in x 7 in each.)

Base (Color A)

With A, ch 42.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc to end (41 sts).

Rows 2–11: sc in each st across (41 sts). Fasten off.

(41 sts x 11 rows = approx. 9 in x 2 in.)

Flap (Color B)

With B, ch 42.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc to end (41 sts).

Rows 2–16: sc in each st across (41 sts).

Row 17: sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog (39 sts).

Rows 18–19: sc in each st across (39 sts).

Row 20: sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog (37 sts).

Rows 21–22: sc in each st across (37 sts).

Row 23: sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog (35 sts).

Rows 24–25: sc in each st across (35 sts). Fasten off.

(41 sts x 25 rows = approx. 9 in x 3.5 in, with stepped lower corners.)

Strap (Color A)

With A, ch 6.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc to end (5 sts).

Rows 2–240: sc in each st across (5 sts). Fasten off.

(5 sts x 240 rows = approx. 1 in x 48 in.)

Button Loop (Color B)

Join B at the center of the flap's lower edge. Ch 12, then sl st back into the same st to form a loop. Fasten off.

Edging (optional, Color B)

Join B at the top edge of the bag body. Sc evenly around the entire top opening (approx. 100 sts), then sl st to the first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Assembly and Finishing

Seaming: With RS facing, pin the front panel to the base along one long edge, and the back panel to the base along the other long edge. Pin one side gusset between the front and back at each short end, matching the 33-row gusset edges to the 33-row panel edges and the 11-st gusset edges to the base short edges. Whipstitch or sc seam all joins with A, working through both loops. Weave in ends.

Flap placement: Center the flap RS facing over the back panel's top edge, with the WS of the flap against the RS of the back, so the flap folds forward over the front. Pin along the top edge and attach with a row of sc in B through both layers (41 sts).

Button: Sew the 1 in (2.5 cm) button to the front panel, centered 1.5 in (4 cm) below the top edge and aligned with the button loop.

Strap attachment: Fold each strap end 1 in (2.5 cm) to the WS. Position one end at each top side seam of the bag, 1 in from the side edge, sandwiching the strap end between the bag layers or whipstitching it flat to the inside top edge with A. Sew firmly through all layers with doubled yarn in two rows of stitching.

Finishing: Weave in all remaining ends on the WS. Lightly steam-block the bag body and flap to even out the stitches and help the seams lie flat, but avoid heavy stretching so the structured shape is preserved.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Swap the color blocks for three or four shades in the same family for a gradient look, keeping the same 8-row block height.
• Add a fabric lining sewn to the inside before the final seam for extra structure and a finished interior.
• Make the strap adjustable by working it slightly shorter and adding a small D-ring and swivel clip at each side seam.